Visas and Jabs

Little more than a month till departure, and  - as winter begins to fade and (as in the photo on the right) Cotswolds snows thaw – the visas and jabs are beginning to come together.

Preparing to  take a bike through Russia to China and on to Vietnam isn’t working out cheap.

  • Best part of £500 for the necessary inoculations – tick-born encephalitis, Hepatitis-B, rabies (thank goodness no longer with the jabs in the stomach) and only the surgery knows what else. Two sore arms this weekend, and that’s a price with a 10% discount for a trip that’s fund-raising for charity.
  • (On which point, please do, if you haven’t already done so, consider sponsoring me for this ride, by clicking the links in the column on the right of each page.)

And on the visa front, ouch.

  • £250 for a double Russian one,  to allow me to cross the enclave of Kaliningrad, formerly the East Prussian Koenigsberg and travel on and back into Russia through Latvia and Estonia
  • £140 or so for visa support from the very friendly Russian Cycle Touring Club.
  • Around £100 for a second passport, to allow application for a Vietnam visa that has to be applied for in London, but if it’s still to be valid when I finally get there in August, can’t be submitted till I’m already long departed from the UK.
  • And more to be set aside for China…

But, all worth every kopeck and dong, and as the days lengthen, the feet are beginning to itch to get back onto Raven, to pile up tent and sleeping bag and camping cooker (a new idea, this one) and a server farm’s worth of computing power (laptop, tablet, phone, GPS, small bike computer, Kindle…. If they’ll all fit) and get going.

Marianne, good friend, has cautioned me against over-indulgent blogging. Brother Hugh commented after the Budapest trip four years ago that some of the posts then made him cringe. (But that’s what brothers are for, are they not?) But then, Netherlands-based friend and journo-colleague Jonathan Marks commended the 2008 blog as just the sort of journey this medium was invented for.

So, knowing that I won’t please everyone all of the time, here’s hoping I pitch the tone at least sufficiently right as these blogs begin to unfold – the point being that, as Marianne also correctly observed, actually the main beneficiary of a blog is the blogger him- or herself.

I know I enjoyed the writing of the blog on the last bike trip, and am already enjoying the writing of this one, more than ever I enjoyed writing for the BBC or Reuters. After all, there’s no editor to put the story on the spike, and no nagging inward sense, as there always was as a correspondent, that this piece isn’t good enough, or clever enough, or well-enough researched.

With a blog, if I don’t say it today, I can always say it tomorrow or, perhaps better, as son Alastair cautioned his over-blogging Dad on 2009′s biking journey into Scotland, in a week’s time. And if I don’t say it right next week, I can have another go the week after. Be warned.

Cycle Trip Preparations – 2 months to go

The View from Cirencester Park

With less than eight weeks to go until I set off on April 3 from the front door of our Wychcroft home in Cirencester (Sue, as a writer of books on the Old Ways, wanted to call our new home Witchcraft, but that really was a step too far), it’s time to start blogging more regularly on the preparations.

Not that there are many followers yet, but I’m hoping that might improve (and thanks to you personally, dear friend or colleague, for being here right now), since one of the aspects of the bike ride first to Moscow and then down through China that I’m most looking forward to is this blog.

You might think that entirely predictable for a former hack with 30 years of foreign reporting and editing experience.

But in fact, for this ex-journo to enjoy the prospect of writing is something of a first. Or rather, a second, given that blogging, to my great surprise, was one of the most enjoyable parts of my last long bike trip to Budapest and back in 2008. Read the rest of this entry

Early MLB setting out in life

Continuing my journey back to the images of childhood, before setting out for six months on the road at 62, I can’t resist posting a couple of evocative pictures from the very early years, at Duckshole Farm near Holt in North Norfolk – causing my brother Hugh early grief, but already displaying the instincts of the traveller.

Looking at these pictures for the very first time 60 years on does make me reflect on how memory is constructed.

The picture above might in fact illustrate what I’ve always thought of my first memory, setting off down the lane at Duckshole to the gate onto the road to Holt, wanting to follow my father into town. Clearly preparing to a grown-up and set off on my own… (more…)

Looking Forward and Back

Having begun seriously to spread the word about the bike trip, including newsletters to EMDR colleagues and the Cantores Choir mailing list, I guess I need to start registering how the preparations for my own journey starting early April are coming along.

Curious how looking back helps with the looking forward.

As I peruse Google Maps for the exact route to Moscow, and remember I’ve forgotten to do my morning stretches, and adjust my spokes to stop Raven’s front wheel binding on the brake block, I’ve been scanning in hundreds of old photos from my/our late father’s family albums.

Curiously, he never showed them to us when he was still alive, so considering all the psychotherapy of the past 20 years exploring and healing (largely) parental legacy, it’s been quite a journey into the past. Read the rest of this entry

Warwick Canal Ring, Days 9 and 10

Days 9 and 10, Saturday/Sunday Oct 1-2, Rugby to Braunston, (eight hours, 19 miles, three locks) and Braunston to Stockton marina (five hours, 12 mile, three locks)

(I should explain to new readers that what follows, backwards, is an account of a 10-day autumnal cruise around the Warwick Ring canal system in central England in late September 2011. Best, probably, to scroll down and read from Day One through to here. Or, be surprised and do it backwards…)

Hottest October day in Britain since records began, and, while of course utterly delightful as we potter gently, surely more than a touch alarming as evidence gathers of irreversible, and for us humans, sooner or later disastrous climate change.

Our selfish hope today as we potter gently south from Rugby to our absolutely favourite canal village of Braunston, is that the collapse that’s coming holds off long enough for the canals to stay filled up with water and for boats to have space, diesel and leisure to enjoy this magnificent network for a few years yet. Read the rest of this entry

Warwick Canal Ring, Day Eight

Day eight. Atherstone to Rugby, 22 miles, one lock, 8¼ hours = 23 lock miles.

Another full-on day. Doing the Warwick Ring in one week is doable – indeed, I know it is having done the Ring on my very first canal boat holiday with a friend and our shared four daughters in 2000. But, slogging our way round the Ring this time, I’m reminded that I must have been somewhat younger and more vigorous then, as this has been an equal measure of fun and hard work.

Moral of this story – pack in the distances and the long locking flights in a first few long days, and enjoy a more leisurely back end of the week confident that you’ll make the boatyard in time for your handover.

That said, my own day has been rather relaxing, having left to Sue most of the steering along the long, pretty but fairly uneventful rolling landscape of the Oxford Canal. Read the rest of this entry

Warwick Ring, Day Seven

Day Seven, Kingsbury Water Park to Atherstone, 8½ hours, 15 miles, 14 locks = 29 lock miles.

We didn’t realise on setting off at just after eight this morning just how important it was to get moving and then maintain that momentum.

All became clear at Atherstone locks just after one o’clock, when we learned that because of the current desperate water shortages, this critical flight opens only at 0830 in the morning – and closes, more crucially for us, at 1600, to preserve water in this driest canal year since the legendary English summer of 1976 (when we read, in a local newspaper, that at Foxton Locks not far to the East one could walk across the dry canal bed.)

As it happens, the angels are smiling again, and we contrive to begin the Atherstone locks at pretty much the precisely perfect time to reach the top on the dot of four. In fact, with literally 60 seconds to spare, although the charming couple who occupy the Lock Cottage at lock one tell us that British Waterways do do a last-minute sweep of the locks before the top gates are padlocked for the night, to make sure that no-one is just tackling the final five locks above number six. Read the rest of this entry

Warwick Ring, Day Six

Day Six Wednesday Sept 28, Birmingham to Kingsbury Water Park, 46 lock miles (11 miles, 35 locks), 9 hours.

From Birmingham along the Brum and Fazely canal, dropping away from the town centre along the Farmers’ Locks under Birmingham’s distinctive BT tower, we now have the canal system virtually to ourselves.

It’s a hard, delightfully but also disturbingly warm early autumn locking day, one of our busiest yet in 10 years of canal boating, and it also reminds me how dangerous it is to lower one’s guard even for a moment on matters of safety.

I’m aware as we set off from Birmingham how slippery my plastic Croc shoes are on the wet brickwork of the lockside, so I quickly nip into the cabin to don my much sturdier walking shoes. Lulled into a sense of greater safety, at the next lock I decide to take a short cut across the front of one of the gates, and I lose my grip. Thankfully, my responses are quick enough to catch my fall, and it’s only my legs that get a soaking up to the knees before I manage to catch myself and pull myself back onto the lock gate. Read the rest of this entry

Warwick Ring, Day Five

Day Five,  Tuesday September 27, Waring’s Green to Birmingham Gas Street Basin. 14 miles, no locks, 5 hours.

Quite how I thought we might be able to make it all the way to Gas Street in Birmingham yesterday, I’m not sure, as today we found ourselves moving surprisingly slowly through the southern suburbs of Birmingham past Cadbury’s Bournville  headquarters (how sad that the company is no longer British-owned) with its uplifting odours of chocolate.

Before reaching Birmingham, the character of the canal changes quite sharply, and moored boats suddenly have solid window protection against vandalism. There are shopping trolleys abandoned in the water, and nylon cables that wrap themselves around our prop shaft, reminding me that it is indeed important EVERY morning to check the prop for debris.

I do sometimes despair of human beings, ready to chuck anything into the canals and anywhere else without a thought for other users. Read the rest of this entry

Warwick Ring and the Molly May, Day Four

Day Four,  Monday Sept 26, Rowington Hill Bridge to Waring’s Green, 26 lock miles (seven miles and 19 locks) in six hours

The ducks may stay slim, but that’s not very true of homo sapiens on the canals.

Have you noticed just how many of our fellow canallers are becoming obese? (OK – the photo here is from last year – see below – but I just love it…) Perhaps it’s the evening beers and sausages and chips. Perhaps it’s all that sitting at the back of the boat while the girls do the hard work on the locks. Perhaps it’s just a symptom of our modern civilisation – obsessed with consumption and unable to say no to that extra-large glass of wine and extra plate of chips.

But, that’s not the point of this blog, which is to enthuse about yet another magnificent day cruising gently towards Birmingham.

If last night’s mooring point was one of our favourites on the Grand Union, the Lapworth flight is certainly our favourite locking experience on the Warwick Ring, or indeed (perhaps with the exception of the Tardebigge between Birmingham and Worcester) anywhere on the canal system. Read the rest of this entry

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